Monday, October 23, 2006

Cannelés


Yummy, yummy cannelés! (Photo: worldtable.com)

After much too long of an absence, I finally took a little virtual trip to San Francisco and a little read of one of my favorite blogs, Chez Pim where I found, hidden amongst the comments on a post about Chowhound and censorship, a comment from Bux, late of eGullet and now of her own blog at World Table. And what should I find there, but a lovely recipe for one of my favorite Parisian treats, cannelés! Granted, I've only had one, but it was from Dalloyau, across from les Jardins du Luxembourg, and I was dazzled by its presence in the glassfronted pastry case. Such a pretty caramel color and pleasing little molded shape -- and then, the intricate dance of choosing, paying, and finally picking it up from the saleslady behind the counter before gaining custody (albeit for such a short time before devouring it!). Little did I know then of its history or of the difficulty in achieving such a pleasing luscious interior crumb and contrasting crunchy exterior. One of these days, maybe I'll finally have the opportunity of having another (or of baking my own)...

Note: Gael Greene, in a review of Paula Wolfert's The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, writes that "word on the pastry circuit is that her classic canelés de Bordeaux—lush custard inside a burnt-sugar shell—are a revelation."

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